The Royal Albert

I have been frequenting this pub, which is on New Cross Road at the bottom of Florence Road, on a fairly regular basis ever since it rose from the ashes of what used to be the Paradise Bar.

When I first moved to the area, probably 20 years ago now, I used to come and see bands at the Paradise Bar, which was essentially a rather scruffy pub with blacked out windows and a stage. Some of the bands were excellent, many were fairly good, and a few were appalling. In the last years of its existence as a music venue, it seemed to go downhill quite rapidly and I hadn't been much at all in the few years before its final demise.

But last year it was reborn as the Royal Albert, and it was quite a revelation on visiting it for the first time to realise that many of the fine old features had been there all along, they had just been obscured by the stage or the darkness.

The front windows are magnificent - large and generously curved; the bar still retains a lot of its Victorian grandeur, and the old pillars have lovely decorated capitals. The new owners (who also own the East Dulwich Tavern, among other pubs) have painted it in stately tones of olive, avocado and such like, and populated it with a jumble of auction room furniture and pictures, some amusing, some frankly awful. As a whole, however, it creates a peaceful and relaxing atmosphere.

In the winter it could seem quite gloomy (or you might just as well say 'cosy') but now, with the lighter nights, the area behind the bar where there is a large skylight, has really come into its own. What's more it's non-smoking (not that that will make any difference in less than a month - HURRAH!)

The range of drinks on offer is good, if rather pricey. They usually have a couple of real ales on (albeit regulars like Youngs and Landlord); they have various continental lagers, cider and strawberry-flavoured lager (don't ask me why). My only gripe would be that their rose wine offering is the rather unsophisticated Rose d'Anjou - when there are so many great roses around these days, why pick something that reminds me of being 15?

Best of all, they have just started doing food! This has been promised since well before christmas, but has finally been introduced in the last month or so. Tonight Flash 'Arry and I decided to sample the menu, as an alternative to our other local - the Dog & Bell (some other time...).

They offer a small range of sandwiches, a soup, and about 10 or 12 main courses ranging from shepherd's pie to homemade haddock & prawn fishcake, or tuna steak, as well as homemade burgers. There are a couple of unusual veggie options too - and most priced at between £7 and £9 for a main course.

Flash had the burger and I sampled the fishcake, which came on spinach, with a creamy parsley sauce. Both were huge, evidently hand-shaped, and delicious. Everything is cooked in the kitchen area at the back, which is open to view - in fact it's practically part of the pub itself. Next time I intend to leave room for pudding!

All in all, a welcome addition to the area's eating/pubbing establishments. At the moment it tends to get quite smokey in the front area, but this will not be a problem soon. Oh, and refreshingly free of Sky!!!!